Panama City

I am so glad the second farm fell through (I guess that's relatively accurate?)--I am enjoying Panama so completely. To think: I didn't even consider the possibility of coming here. I must admit, most of my preconceived ideas (disease and bug infested) about Panama come from partial truths about the construction of the Panama Canal and the many people who died of malaria and yellow fever during that period. Yeah, fully aware of how stupid that is. Anyway. I spent one night in David, the third largest city and dreadful, before heading to Boquete, near Volcan Baru in the mountains. It's a beautiful area and unfortunately couldn't really take advantage of all the hiking in the area due to misinformation from an absolutely insane hostal owner and a storm that closed a trail. Still, enjoyable. Walking the pouring rain, lots of hitching rides back to town. After that, the original plan had been to go directly to the Caribbean side to Bocas del Toro. However, as often happens, other places started to sound too good to miss. I went to Boca Brava, an island on the Pacific, for several days. I'd heard about it from about 6 different people who all told me just to show up, that I'd only have to sleep in a hammock for a max one night. Emily and I were so close to sleeping in hammocks (we even set up the mosquito net, makeshiftily) but luckily found someone with an extra double bed in his room. It was nice to be back on the coast, I hadn't realized how long I'd been inland (weeks and weeks and weeks!). Some of the best fish I've ever had, too, at the restaurant in the hostal. The plan had then been to go to Bocas del Toro, but so many people recommended Panama City, so here I am! Home of the canal, seen briefly from the bus. Carnaval starts on Friday, so I'm excited to see how Panama celebrates! (Hopefully not a repeat of last year, Badajoz...) I walked around the Casco Viejo today, the colonial part. Some areas are completely run down and some are filled with beautiful buildings. I went in the Teatro Nacional, and later returned for a "ballet show" which no one could (or would, perhaps) describe. Emily and I decided that it ought to be good no matter what it was, being in the National Theater, inaugurated in 1906 (!). Shit, it was a ballet recital for ages 2-18. It was terrible. And hilarious. Because, really? As Emily pointed out, this kind of event is hosted in a high school auditorium. Not a National Theater for $10! Not really worth it (in any way) but so funny.

Panama is much cheaper than Costa Rica in almost every regard (salvo transportation). It's really strange to be using the US dollar again, especially because our dead presidents are on the official currency of this country. Panama mints its own coins (balboas), although half seem to be American as well. It was strange to see an Oregon quarter.. so far from home. The money seems so much more real to me, as opposed to spending thousands of something for a meal. I've met a lot of people who are continuing on to Colombia from here. There is no passage overland (in theory, yes, but passing the Darien Gap between the two countries sounds suicidal--FARC, anyone?) so everyone either flies or goes by boat. As happens every time I travel, I want to go with. Go to Colombia and just continue south to see the penguins. Alas, I restrain myself and will reluctantly (hah!) return to Costa Rica via the Caribbean coast, travel for a few days with Jenny (!) and then head to Nicaragua. For a third currency in my wallet. I like it.