Sunday, February 1, 2009

La puta gallina

I just finished two weeks at Finca Granadilla Silvestre in Quizarrá. I can't believe the time went so quickly; I've been here in Costa Rica for a month now. Oh, and it's February. Unbelievable. I caught myself wondering if I had ever lived in Seattle--did that happen? Another thought shocked me: everyone, all my friends, family, acquaintances have been living their lives while I've been gone. Obviously. But it hadn't occurred to me. And, could it possibly be winter at home? Seems unlikely.

The farming situation was... hmm. It was a wonderful experience, but definitely not in the way I expected. Emily and I arrived to Quizarrá in the dark, walked halfway to the farm, got a ride for the other half. There was utter confusion when we arrived at the house of Pancho and Rocio, the tico family that takes care of the farm while the rich Canadian owners, Elizabeth and Warren, go between the two countries. We ended up staying in the ticos' cabin, right next to the chicken coup. Basically, we worked 4 hours per day, 4 days per week, starting at 6am. The work was, shall we say, unrewarding. The farm itself doesn't really produce anything to sell, as the shade grown coffee hasn't been producing enough to be profitable. We basically were assigned various tasks to aid in the conservation of the farm and its land (terraces to slow erosion, composting, etc.). Some of the jobs seemed pretty contrived, and it really seems that the farm is funded by WWOOFers. A little awkward. But! The tico family was amazing! Rocio, the mother, is so sweet and patient and hilarious. She would swing by our cabin and teach us to make various tico food: gallo pinto, tortillas, empanadas, plátanos, etc. Basic food was provided: rice, beans, bananas, plantains, oil, sugar, salt, plus whatever came from the garden and we could buy eggs, cheese and milk (from the cow, Tontina). So, there was a lot of experimenting with the limitless food (hmm, should we add some chives, too? dill?). Rocio also showed us how to milk Tontina. Difficult!

The area is beautiful. Quizarrá is in the hills near Chirripó, the highest point in Central America. It's so green, and a lot cooler. The higher hills are constantly shrouded in fog. There are rivers everywhere. One day we hiked up the river to a waterfall. It's incredible. We also spent a lot of time sitting on the porch of the cabin listening to Rocio and her three sons yell at each other, while the youngest, Adrián, abused these puppies. The word "puta" was thrown around a lot...

So, I'm excited to see how the next farm will be. I'm hoping that there is more meaningful farming (by meaningful: productive?) and more to learn. I'd like to improve my milking skills. I'm definitely getting better at dealing with bugs here, as they are a fact of life if your abode is not sealed at all. I only squealed a little this morning when there was a little scorpion (alacrán, love that word) near my bed. I do feel a bit relieved to be staying in a hotel for the night; three stories up and sealed! The next adventure will be an attempt at the summit at Chirripó. Not quite that extreme but Emily and I are going to hike the tallest peak in Central America minus Guatemala or something (it's not saying much) if we can get the reservations. Ought to be funny. I don't know, Corcovado was a success so this should be fine too. Less snakes.

Anyway! I am completely tired of this sweltering internet cafe. I miss everyone! (yes, yes, it's true, once I remembered that everyone still existed.)

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