Bosnia

Wow, Bosnia. We survived the 12 hour train, through amazingly beautiful green hilly countryside, small villages with mosques, 2 border crossings and 6 passport checks. We got to Sarajevo at a little after 9pm, someone from the hostel picked us up at the train station and drove us to the hostel reception, where we were given free welcome beers (one each) and told to follow this guy who didn't speak English, "ten minutes away". It was across the river and up a huge hill, through a unlit sketchy alley to a hostel in a building connected to an abandoned, collapsing building, with a rottweiler in a cage barking outside. I was vaguely afraid we were being led to our deaths. For the first night in our five bed dorm there were only three of us, Sydney, me and a Scottish guy named Mickey. The beds were extremely uncomfortable, with a deep dip in the middle, forcing you to sleep on your back most of the night. The next day we explored Sarajevo with Mickey, in his kilt. We saw the bridge where Archduke Ferdinand was shot, beginning WWI. There are many mosques, surrounded by churches and several synagogues. It was definitely strange to be in a Muslim region in Europe because it has the feel of Europe but with beautiful mosques everywhere. Five times daily the mosques call to prayer: one mosque starts, when it ends, you hear another mosque, and so forth. It's really beautiful and I definitely prefer it to church bells ringing.

There are many bullet hole-ridden buildings. In Sarajevo, most very damaged places have been restored, but you can still see the evidence of a very recent war. It is such lovely city, with green hills on both sides with houses extending upward. We went to a Muslim cemetery in the rain: it was slightly unreal. Our second night, we went with Mickey to a brewery and ate dinner. The food has been so good, with so much flavor. And the beer. So good. I had a dark beer for the first time in so long, I almost died it was so good.

When we got to Mostar, we were accosted by people offering accommodations at the bus station. We tried to say we had a reservation at a hostel already (a lie) but the offer seemed so good that we agreed to go look at the room. The hostel was perfectly fine and legitimate. We walked around the city (small but stunning), which is situated over a beautiful, clear river between hills. I noticed more damaged buildings here that hadn't been restored, with warnings not to enter. We climbed the minaret of a mosque, with an incredible view of the city and the famous Stari Most bridge.

Some Basque guys in Sarajevo had told us about these excellent waterfalls near Mostar, but they had a car. We asked the people at the hostel, they told us a bus that went out there, and told us later about a tour from a different hostel. We decided on the tour because, though expensive, it seemed quite difficult to get back on the bus from the waterfalls. He picked us up the next morning and we went with a group of 13 or so. Our first Americans since we left Spain! Also, a bunch of Brits, an Australian. Everyone was pretty cool. We started out by going to this old village with a fortress and a mosque that had been largely destroyed during the war. We then went to this strange animal farm with horses, ponies, a donkey, goats, rabbits, guinea pigs, dogs... It was quite weird. Some people rode horses but there were only two that could be ridden so we were there for over an hour. It was fine, though, because there was a cafe nearby. After, we went to the waterfalls. Fucking incredible. You'll just have to see the pictures to understand. We swam in the frigid water, played under the falls for over an hour. It was great. Afterwards we went to see an area where the Virgen Mary was seen 17 years ago or so. Next, to dinner near a huge cliff with a cave and a monastery. It was pretty awesome, the whole tour.

Now, off to Dubrovnik today! I can't wait! But I'm sad to leave Bosnia. The people have been so nice, the food great, the cities wonderful. From meeting all these people and hearing where they've been, I just want to keep traveling forever. Not possible at the moment though... unfortunately.